So there it is, the cable sweater you have to have. But oh! all those cables.. Working cables is one of the most satisfying techniques in knitting, but if you have a lot of cables in one panel it can be also be repetitive, and not in the knitting and purling repetitive way that we all love so much about knitting. A simple way to relieve the annoyance of constantly picking up and putting down that cable needle is just to work without one! You do this by (heavens!) dropping your stitches, replacing them on the needle in the crossed position and then working them in either knits or purls as called for in your instructions.
And don’t worry, the dropping part is not as risky as it may sound! The trick is to pick them up in such a way as to minimize the risk of them being lost. In this example I will show you a cable that is worked using 3 sts. The cables are on a purl st background, and the two cable stitches are crossing over one purl stitch, heading to the right.
Step 1: Drop the stitches. Some prefer not to do this, in which case you could work into the back of the purl stitch, then bring your yarn to the front to work the knits. Personally, I find this method a bit cumbersome and sometimes confusing if you are working a variety of cables in multiple directions. As I show you here, you can also just drop all the relevant stitches off your left needle. What I need to do now, is bring the purl stitch to the back of the knits, back on to my left needle, so that I can first work into the cabled knit stitches.
Step 2: Picking them back up again. I certainly don’t want to lose my 3 little stitches here, and the sequence in which I pick them up will either make my life easier or harder. For this cable, I have found is that it works best to pick up the stitches closest to the left needle first, in this case, the two cable knit stitches. I bring forward my right needle and catch those two stitches, then I can reach down with the left needle to re-catch the purl stitch. Next, I will slide the 2 knit cable sts also back onto the left needle, which will put them ahead of the purl stitch, and in the correct position to be worked.
Step 3: Working the cable. Here the stitches are in the correct sequence, with the knit stitches crossing over the purl stitch, and I am now able to knit the first of the two knit cable stitches. (BTW – though it appears as though I’m knitting into the back of my stitch here, that is not necessary. In all likelyhood, I had accidentally twisted the stitch when I picked it up, so rather than re-dropping it, I just went ahead and knitted into the back of the stitch.)
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Here is a second example, this time cabling with four stitches. In this cable, I am crossing over again from left to right, but this time, one cable over another.

Step 1: Drop the stitches. As shown here, I have already dropped the four cable stitches and have now picked up the 2 sts closest to my right needle, these will be crossed behind the stitches that I have yet to pick up, which I will do with my right needle as shown in the next image below.
Step 2: Picking them back up again . To do this, I will bring my right needle forward and catch the two loose sts. The next step would be to slide these front stitches back onto the left needle, putting them in the correct place in front of the other cable. They will then be ready to knit.
Step 3: Working the cable. In this image, you can see that I have knitted the first two stitches and will now knit the next two, competing this front cross.
There is really no reason why this technique could not be worked with any size cable, the main thing being of course that you don’t drop your stitches. It may be a little more challenging if you were knitting at a really small gauge, but given good lighting and a bit of bravado you should be able to do this with no trouble at all. So don’t be afraid to give it a go.
These images were taken as I was working on what will be a sweater. At the size I’m making it, I have 14 repeats of four overlapping cables that will eventually form a trellis design. I’m crossing stitches in both directions, left and right, on every other row. This means if I were to use a cable needle I would have to pick it up and put it down some 56 times each cable round. As it is, working without the cable needle has made this project a lot more fun, engaging and satisfying, let alone considerably faster to do.
Signed Freia up for another class. This one is on off-leash behaviour. For her, the problem is recall. She’s had a couple of disappearing acts at the dog park, but always in play with another dog, and she does return within a few minutes. I would of course prefer her to not run away, and certainly not out of bounds into the non-off leash areas of the park. That being said, her biggest sin is recall related.
The top is nice, and looks fine in this photo of Vickie and me taken at the taping, but it was not so kind to me on TV. It was really a 3 strikes issue, and nothing wrong with the top itself. #1, TV really does add 10 lbs, then #2, you factor in the microphone box tucked into the small of your back, pulling the top out of place, and then well, #3, the top is fuzzy..
I’m beginnning to feel as though I run an infirmary.
Then there’s the cats.
Took all the creatures to the vet today. Sam had a claw that was growing too long and curling around to his foot pad. I tried to cut it back the other night, but he peed on me, and the claw remained uncut. Fortunately, when he peed I had him tightly bundled in a blanket, so I personally did not get peed on, just the blanket. I didn’t get mad at him, I just felt sorry for him, poor guy. Since he’s “of a certain age” (16 years) he’s falling a little behind in his personal upkeep and is not sharpening his claws like he used to, so they risk becoming ingrown.
Since I got the dog, and now have a new vet for her, I figured I’d start the cats at the new vet too. I really much prefer this vet over the last one that I used for the cats before. Here they are friendly, caring and personable, as well as professional and communicative. Plus they aren’t exhorbitantly expensive, even though I have managed to spend a small fortune there over the course of the last year.
So, new vet, new diagnoses for both cats. The previous vet had decided the two cats had kitty herpes, with Sable showing symptoms in her eyes (goopy) and Sam in his sinuses (stuffy nose/sneezing). They prescribed Lysine. I wasn’t thrilled with the diagnoses but tried the Lysine anyway, which had no effect. The new vet took one look at Sable, cleaned her eyes and showed me that she has
As for Sam, he needs dental work, which is what is causing the sinus trouble (and probably contributing to his kidney issues too). Now that will be expensive as they will probably end up having to extract four canines (the big teeth).. last but not least, the vet said that Sam also has cataracts, and I told the vet that I believe he’s also becoming deaf. Sable gets an eyelift and Sam gets his teeth pulled.. not very fair.
Tomorrow I get the results of the kitties blood tests which will probably tell me that they are both suffering from kidney failure and thyroid issues, both fairly typical for old age cats. Then starts the debate of how much time/money does one spend to keep them going? And to who’s benefit is it to do that?
